Fashionable Garment Industry


Quality Standards


Please note that these are not our official terms of delivery and payment but only a guide to help you get a better understanding of the rules we follow.

The purpose of this handbook is to contribute towards optimising the quality assurance of Identity Textiles Group and our suppliers. The assurance of quality is not always a question of price; improved attention for the 'quality' aspect is usually sufficient to improve the final product by a much higher level of quality with the same components and employment. Therefore, Identity spends a lot of time and energy to train their team, invests in automatic equipment and has very strict regulations regarding quality in our production departments. Our quality and service team is open to any new suggestions from our buyers as well our suppliers to improve ourselves. To improve our quality we also rely on the knowledge you possess!

The general conditions we will mail you and which you find on the internet are binding for those who make an offer, receive an enquiry from us or our suppliers producing raw materials for our companies. This handbook is given to all sub-contractors working with Identity Textiles Group Ltd. Deviation from this standard instruction is only possible if such is mentioned in the way of enquiry by writing and is signed by one of our legal managers or directors.

Child labour
Identity Textiles Group Ltd. does not accept any products that are manufactured with involvement of labour by children under the age of 16 and are manufactured in circumstances detrimental to the health, education and development of children.

Labour conditions
Identity Textiles Group Ltd. does not accept products manufactured under working conditions that do not satisfy the generally acceptable standards of decency. This includes forced labour, i.e. by convicts forced to carry out hard labour during their imprisonment, labour in dangerous conditions, and labour that is detrimental to health.

Wintex - order confirmation
Identity works with and invested in a system called Wintex, this system is connected with all computers in our network offices and is running on the latest technology platform from where all departments can follow each step in the production departments and our planners can be informed about each production status. For each order we send you an order confirmation that needs to be signed and faxed to our head office. Orders are confirmed after receiving a signed order confirmation and when the pre payment or guaranty agreed on the orde confirmation is received in our bank. On our order confirmation you will find our terms of payment that need to be followed strictly. A short message regarding our delivery terms and conditions you will find at bottom, a large part of this we mail you when our working relation starts and which you can download at any time from our website as well. (only our official terms and condition can be followed and are legal and we mail you this on first request when you did not received them.

Open database internet
In the future Wintex will be partly open for your information by the internet, in this case you can acessa ny information on where your shipment is, the status of approvals and any other information which you may need.

Fabric consumption and quality control
Identity has the right to deliver due to quality inspections 5% more or less to our buyers from the ordered quantity without any restrictions to guaranty our high quality level during our production inspection.

During our production the following inspections are taken to follow your orders, and reported to our account managers.

Line inspectors

1. All seams for cracking, missed stitches, tension of machines right, needle damage.
2. All top and cover stitches clean and at right tension.
3. Placket for breaking out at bottom corner.
4. Cross stitches of placket nice and straight in the middle.
5. Seams need to be stretched with force to control needle holes.
6. Shoulder tape is not twisted and extra fabric stitched in the shoulder part.
7. Twin needle stitching around neck-armholes is not cracking.
8. Twin needle hemming to ensure no raw edges are visible
9. Sew in labels are positioned at the centre of the shirt and label is not placed to
deep in the seam.
10. Collars are market to the correct measurement.

Table inspectors

1. Measure the garment total regarding measuring sheet.
2. Check if a collar is attached evenly, and if there is no puckering at the front neck
3. Turn the garment and remove the lot stickers
4. Check the seams at needle damage to stretch the seams.
5. Check if the label is at right positions in the garment.


1. Press garments flat, never folded with the sleeves under it as this leaves sleeve
impression marks at the garment.
2. Do not iron (press) a placket, only steam this !
3. Do not place iron direct onto the collar, only use lightly steam.
4. Garment should be carefully pressed to avoid distortion.
5. Garment must no be over-pressed and glazing-shining effects must not be evident.

Packing -final examination

1. Packing instruction must be follow and special instruction discussed with QC
2. Garment should be packed in a approval bags, with the front of the garment face up.
3. All labels, barcode's, special stickers should be checked regarding this order, style
color and size.
4. Cartons must be cleared with the order and customer and special remarks must be
5. Remarks at each carton must be numbered by the lot number and placed at the
packing list of this order by article number, color, size and quantity.
6. Packing of carton must be standard, one tape over the length of the carton and two plastic nylon tape in the width.
7. Incase of remarks at carton a waterproof ink must be used.


1. Each private label promotional textiles project will have a standard fee for Parcel and clearing the goods in EEC the cost for the moment is 60,00 € per order.
1a. Fashion buyers parcels are agreed from buyer to buyer according to conditions.
2. Before sending a style sample or detail in some cases we first make a digital picture and mail this to the you to avoid extra parcel cost.
3. Incase a customer did not requested a sample for approval, as production sample, lab dip proof print or embroidery or any other to approve detail, the customer takes the full responsibility and except the goods than as we deliver them.

Sewing operation standards
The purpose of this part is to mention the standards for quality in the different departments.

All Seams must be neatly and securely fastened off, with no loose or long ends. The seams must not have any needle damage and be correctly balanced i.e. no grinning.

The following requirements are general standards in our production.

Stitches per cm.
Standard knitted garments 10-12 stitches per 2.5 cm
Standard woven garments 12-14 stitches per 2.5 cm

Type of stitching.
Standards knitted garments Tops 4 thread overlock or 3 thread with
5 mm bight.
Fleece fabrics Tops and bottoms 4 thread overlock with minimum 7
mm bight.
Standards woven garments Tops and bottoms 5 thread safety stitch with 10 mm
bight or thread overlock with 7
mm bight.

Broken needles must be reported to the line manager by the broken needle reports. Needles not complete traced during replacement must be removed from the standard garments and detected to trace the needle and remove this from the garment. Always use number 7 needles in standard knitted garments and not 9 in order to prevent needle damage .

1. Operator should ever be in possession of any needles other than those which are
used in the machine.
2. By replacement the line manager will hand over the new needle, and reports
reasons and checks if the old needle is complete found. Reports must be hand
over to the QC manager.(quality control manager)
3. Broken needles must be removed from the production floor after replacement.

All we do to not get any broken needles in our production you need to scan them by a metal detection and we do not accept any responsibility for broken needles in our production others as you request and we charge extra for scanning our garments.

Button and button hole
1. Buttons must be attached using lockstitch button sewing machines. A minimum 14
stitches is required.
2. Button attachment must be checked minimum 2 times a day of after technical service.
3. Button hole size for woven fabrics 2 mm larger than the diameter of the button. button hole's in knitted fabrics same size as button diameter.
4. The hole's must be checked at clean cut and no loose ends, others knife blades must be sharp or replaced.
5. New type or dyed buttons must be checked at colorfastness during washing.

1. All used zippers must be purchased from approved suppliers or require a official
test report.
2. Number, length, brand, type of zipper must be approved during sampling period
and can not be changed without permission from the customer and account
3. Pin lock zippers are not allowed, untested unknown zippers or suppliers from zippers are not allowed to use.
4. Auto-lock zippers are preferred, Semi-lock can be used with customer approval.
5. Zippers must be checked on sharp edges (not allowed)
6. Pullers of zippers must be approved by customer and in line with the product, pullers must be checked for color fastness and breaking during use. By doubt needed to be tested extern and reported to account manager and customer.
7. Zips need to lay flat, fabric must not pucker, must be checked by QC
Zip slider must move without obstruction.
8. Zipper may not have loose ends. the slider must not be removed or move easily.

1. All labels and design must be checked at colors and drawing from the general
approved presentation.
2. Care instruction at loop labels must be checked according project and fabric.
3. Stitched seam space must be enough to view complete logo or slogan after placement in the garment.
4. We do not accept claims on labeling, others as we send a label for approval.

General accessories
1. All other use accessories dyed are checked for colorfastness if mention at
pre-production list.
2. All other accessories need to meet the requirements and checked for this by quality management.
3. Specific points must be mentioned at the quality reports file to follow from account
management and follow up by QC manager to avoid errors, as stoppers, silicone
badges, elastics and other accessories to report this to our buyers before production.

General standard of inspection rules (AQL) Acceptable quality level.
1. AQL major defects= 2.5 per 100
2. AQL minor defects= 4 per 100

Tolerance of measuring inspection.

Type of garment
Measuring (CM)
Measuring length
Under 6 cm
+/- 5 %
From 6-15 cm
+/- 5 %
From 15-65 cm
+/- 5 %
From 65- 130 cm
+/- 5 %
+/- 5 %
Under 6 cm
+/- 3.5 %
From 6-14
+/- 3.5 %
From 15-65 cm
+/- 3.5 %
From 65-130 cm
+/- 3.5 %
+/- 3.5 %

Critical defect
It's a defect that judgment and experience indicate is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining, or depending upon product.

Major defect
It's a defect other than critical, that is likely to result in failure, or to reduce materially the usability of the unit of products for its intended purpose.

Minor defect
Is a defect that is not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose.

Fabric defect
1. Thick, thin or slub yarns not acceptable
2. Dead seed left in yarn-fabric which is evident when dyed is unacceptable
3. Bar lines are unacceptable unless yarn dyed fabric twisted and mentioned before.
4. Dyeing faults are unacceptable, uneven dyeing faults era unacceptable
5. Number of holes during knitting has to be reported before acceptance of order others no hole's are excepted.


Quality section : Knitted fabrics Fabric construction: All

A. This sheet contains the minimum performance standards
B. This standard are made for guaranty of our products for price and quality level.
C. All fabrics produced for Identity and mention under above level have to meet the standard performance as below. Identity test all the fabrics internal for there own use, extern testing by a laboratory will be charged to our customers and can be handed out, internal testing can not be handed out.

Test description Minimum performance requirements
BS 4768 1072 (1997) Bursting strength (30 mm) 250 kPa (only Polar 550 kPa)
BS 5811 1986 (1997) Resistance to Pilling Tops (3 hrs) 3-4
BS 5690 1991 (1997) Resistance to Abrasion (9kPa) Top 10.000 rubs (face)
Spirality maximum 5%

Machine Wash BS EN 26330:1994 4A 40° flat dry +/- 5% length and width
Appearance following machine wash and tumble dry above (Polar fleece only) 4.

BS EN ISO 105-c06:1997 BS 3-4 Whites only
LIGHT BS - other colors
BS EN ISO 105-C06:1997 Shade change 4
Washing (B21S 50°) Staining 3-4
BS EN ISO 105-E01:1996 Shade change 4
Water (except whites) Staining 3-4
BS EN ISO 105-X12:1995 Dry 4 Wet 3

Azo dye-formaldehyde content-heavy metal content-pcp content-release of nickel
(see list below )

All Azo dyestuff which can be decomposed into one of the following 20 amines are strictly prohibited !

4-aminodiphenly benzidine / 4-chlore-o-toluidine / 2-naphthylamine / o-aminoazotoluene / 2-amino-4-nitrotoluene-p-chloroaniline / 2,4-diaminoanisole / 4,4-diaminodiphenylmethane / 3,3-dichlorobenzidine /3,3-dimethoxybenzidine / 3,3-dimethylbenzidine / 3,3-dimethyl-4,4-diaminodiphenylmethane p-kresidin / 4,4-methylen-bis-(2-chloroaniline) / 4,4-oxydianiline / 4,4-thiodianiline / o-toluyendiamine / 2,4,5-trimethylaniline.

Labdip and color approval
Identity color measuring requirement and procedure. (Photo spectra meter follow up)

Fabric must be measured on the face side / Fabric must be folded to four thickness / Fabric must be measured with the Wales being in a horizontal plane / scanning must be on a white tile-surface.
Light sources.

Primary light source, artificial daylight reference D65 / Only one light source may be used for same project.

Shade matching. (Most important for re-dye !!)
1. Approved Lap dip against master standard (first Lot) after Re dye, Make a Continuity card from first dye lot called master standard. Next batch against master standard.
2. Remark: Lab dip is to give the dyer a master standard and recipe for approval and finding the master standard, for new batches the master standard must be used and controlled.

extra information.
Spectra meter Final Delta E Fail/Pass assessment, reading must be under D65. After checked in light cabin to ensure that fabric is dyed on the same parameter. Pass/fail tolerance : 1.00 for bulk production. Equation 1. CMC(2:1) Scans the fabric 5 times if the fabric fails the delta E tolerance.

Color continuity swatches should have a sizes of at least 7×5 cm and have to be attached to the approved lab card.

Lead time production schedule advice
When you place an order the following parts need to be followed to reach the delivery time. Identity give the delivery time to any project based at approved final samples. When a sample will be produced, lap dip is refused and we need to renew or any other parts of the order will be delayed according to that.

Delievery date mentioned in the orderconfirmations is only for guide and do not have any legal rights or gives a confirmed date when below dates are not approved within this period. It helps us and our customers to follow a schedule for below items. Planning is made according to this with our suppliers and production departments in Identity Textiles group and only with this we are in the position to ship in time.

Wintex deadline control.
In the management meeting we follow deadlines by our report generator and our planning managers will follow all delay by the reports and discus with the departments to get the reason, each account manager will get an update of the deadline report to control the orders to be shipped for coming 2 weeks. For the control of deadlines in the approved details list we follow the time as under:
Lab-dip 7 days ex factory
Fabrics after approved lab dip 10 days ex factory
Proof print standard 7 days ex factory
Proof print separation technology on request
Proof embroidery 5 days ex factory
New label proof 8 days ex factory
Sample in Available fabric 5 days ex factory
Other Accessories sample 10 days ex factoryl
Preproduction sample 4 weeks ex factoryl
Shipping order after all approvals 14 days ex factory

This dates are just for your indication and planning.

Official terms of delivery and payment
Important, this sheet and information is only to understand the principles in our company and to avoid problems during your orders to get a better understanding what we will do and how we care and work with your orders. These are not our official terms of delivery and conditions see below!

Our standard delivery and shipping terms that we placed on the internet and you can download at any time or request them to be sent to you via mail / fax. This form can be read as advice and as a general procedure to help you avoid any delays or any misunderstandings that can occur between our buyers and Identity Textiles group.

Our official terms of delivery and payments are above this advice form and the only legal document we give out and follow.

Please note that this file / form can be changed any time without any prior notice, please check from time to time to get the last updated version from our website.

For questions / remarks please contact our This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.